Madeleine

Of its former life as the restaurant Coccinelle, all that remains is the beautiful, multicolored wine-bottle-bottom facade, now adorned with the name of the restaurant from happy new owners Marie Hamon (a former school teacher) and François Ash (who used to work at Le 52 in Paris). At this freshly renovated winstub (exposed rafters, rustic woodwork, a tiled green bar, light wood tables), the chef delights guests with fresh and seasonal cuisine given Alsatian and Breton twists, a nod to the chef and owner’s respective home regions. For us, the other night, that meant: a very light kohlrabi and turnip carpaccio seasoned with a dash of olive oil, grated horseradish and aromatic lovage; perfectly pearly Roscoff turbot steak, served with pan-fried green asparagus, broad beans and celery, all fortified with lemony hollandaise sauce and, just because they suggested it and we couldn’t resist, a bowl of homemade fries and salad; before a caramel apple over a thick Breton shortbread crust, glazed with creamy buttermilk. The lunchtime menu is equally unfussy, featuring options like leeks vinaigrette topped with hazelnutty eggs mimosa, followed by veal with spaetzle and carrots, plus chocolate mousse for dessert. // Angela Dolu

FEELING THIRSTY? : Around 30 natürlich Alsatian wines, and so much more: an Alsatian pinot blanc produced by Albert Maurer (€5.40 a glass), Amandiers, a chenin from La Folle Berthe (€38 a bottle), Barbe Jaune, an oxidative gewürztraminer from Olivier Carl (€49), Les Acacias du Mas, a malbec by Périé (€69)… And digestifs, like mirabelle plum or quince liqueur by Christian Binner (€6.50 for 30 ml).
PRICE: : Set menus €19-22 (lunch), à la carte €40-51 (dinner).