After kilometers of gingham tablecloths, liters of beer and German tourists by the dozen, the folkloric charm of Alsatian winstubs gets old quick… Unless you head over to the Andt’s place (cheeky drawings, Renaissance woodwork, modern chairs). Run by a father-daughter duo, the windows are made out of wine bottles and obscure a cool, young crowd who are lured in by Christophe’s extensive natural collection (over 13,000 bottles!) and the traditional but youthful cuisine from Coralie. The proof the night we went, with a “hot corbeau” which beautifully combined a smoked cumin-spiced sausage with sauerkraut (€17.50); pork shank served with mixed greens in a mustardy vinaigrette (€9.50); and a creamy Alsatian cherry tart (€5.70). So dig into the wine collection with thirteen thousand wonders: a rare Oeillade from Navarre, a VDF Saint-Chinian (€6.20 for a quarter liter), a Chablis from De Moor (€34 a bottle) and all the local lords – Muscat from Maurer (€5.30 a glass), Pinot noir from Trimbach (€35 a bottle), etc. Menu €13.50 (lunch), à la carte €25-50. // R.deC.