A no-nonsense name, a handful of wooden tables, a warm welcome, a few clever small plates and a wall of wines guaranteed to make your head spin. For the first wine bar in the Jura capital, Clara Thenoz and Julien Buiret are pulling out all the stops. After meeting at Les Terrasses in Tournus (him behind the bar, her in the dining room) and then working together at Fred Cossard’s wine shop in Burgundy, they’re now armed with a plethora of bottles to flood the peaceful town. From regional gems – One Shot, a trousseau-poulsard from Domaine Novice in Poligny (€35 a bottle) and a trousseau from Domaine de Saint-Pierre (€64) in Arbois – to selections from further afield in France: a Bourgogne aligoté from La Chaume des Lies (€29) or Otium, a grenache from Mataburro in Roussillon (€24). All are available to take away, with small discounts depending on the bottle. But seeing as though we were in a leisurely mood, we filled a glass with L’Étoile 2018, a savagnin from Domaine des Avanchés (€7.50 a glass) and paired it with some Occitan cured meats from Maison Montalet (€12) – just the right accompaniment from the tempting grazeables. · Pascal Diagonale