Welcome to the dazzling new venture from Zoé Boinet, the sommelier who kept wines flowing for a long time over at L’Auberge de Chassignolles, before taking on the Jura department in her cowboy boots, guided by her Étoile du Berger – aka the name of this former B&B with old stone walls and wooden rafters which she cleverly refurbished with eye-catching details, like the mirrored countertop and antique tableware and linens. With her sparkling energy, the hostess with the mostest makes customers feel like they’re having a meal at home with her, with assistance from Clémentine Rétif (ex-Sain in Nantes). Zoé has entrusted the kitchen to Australian chef Byron Fini (who did a stint at Peg in London and Le Doyenné in Saint-Vrain), who himself is backed up by Margot Meziane (ex-Ferme de la Besse in the Ardèche). The crisp fall night we went, all of that translated into: a reinvigorating pair of Cancale oysters topped off with raw cream, crisp celery and apple; miniature 24-month Comté fritters that had us licking our fingers clean; a delightful flatbread covered in buttery mussels and a translucent veil of thinly sliced smoky cured ham; divine flame-charred mackerel with a refreshingly zesty satsuma mandarin yogurt sauce, plus some delicious bread baked by Ariane Stern to wipe the plate clean; a beautiful slice of rosy trout with raw fennel and tender roasted onion petals, over a silky almond purée; and finally, a vibrant agastache ice cream dotted with toasted hazelnuts. All in all, a lesson in how to lead a beautiful life. // Angela Dolu

FEELING THIRSTY? : Wines that are as lively as Zoé herself, sourced from near and far: a seyve-villard produced by Didier Grappe in Saint-Lothain (€7 a glass), an Arbois pinot noir by the Domaine du Calice (€41 a bottle), or Elyo, a non-disgorged sparkling chardonnay by Le Mousterot near Besançon (€34).
PRICE: : Prix-fixe menus €25-35 (lunch), snacks €6-12, appetizers €9-17, mains €17-30, desserts €7-12.