restaurant

Le Doyenné

Restaurant Le Doyenné (Saint Vrain)

© James Patisson

  • Date
  • share

Out in the countryside and against all odds, the brilliant Aussie chefs James Edward Henry and Shaun Kelly (who used to work at Au Passage, Bones and Yard in Paris) are finally reaping the fruits of several years of labor at the vegetable patches of the Le Doyenné farm. These days, in the heart of agriculture-heavy Essonne department, they pamper their phenomenal fruit and vegetable production under a monumental glass-ceilinged space, in what was previously Niki de Saint Phalle’s atelier – it has since been redesigned by Ciguë studio, centered around farm tables, a solid wood bar, and vintage half-moon banquette seating… The day we went for lunch, all of the following graced our plates: raw, smoked and sliced mackerel with pickled yellow tomatoes served over plump focaccia, briny Oléron oysters with chili pepper granita, and garden-fresh trumpet zucchini / carrot / cornichon masterfully dotted with fresh herbs, for the classy amuse-bouche; an exceptional medallion of raw, line-caught Albacore tuna with pistou, plus a veil of raw yellow zucchini; a umami-esque Bigorre pork chop raised on the Le Doyenné farm, served perfectly pink with plenty of jus, an onion cooked over the wood fire and berries; before an amaretto-style hazelnut cookie topped with Gwell fermented milk, with a rhubarb and peach leaf granita, all of which was placed atop a bed of pistachio ice cream. In short, a restaurant where the grass is definitely greener! // James Patisson

FEELING THIRSTY? The master of wines Thibault Chauvet (ex-108 in Copenhagen) has you covered: a Loire pet’ nat’ from Philippe Tessier (€10 a glass), a Gamay from Yann Bertrand (€14, an Arbois Chardonnay from Les Bottes Rouges (€65 a bottle)… and for a (nearly) ethanol-free drink, there’s kefir made with figs from the garden (€6).
PRICE: Set menus €45 (lunch) and €80 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
I WANT IT!

About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.