Le Fooding Guide’s 2012 crush
We’ve been passing through Au Passage over and over again for seven years now, without ever getting tired of it. The décor still has the same care-free vibe: old mirrors, Art Deco suspension lamps, broken bistro tile floors… And in the kitchen, it’s now time for Luis Miguel Tavares Andrade (ex-Palais Royal) to lead the charge. The night we went, there was nothing but tasty grub: gilthead bream tartare floating over ponzo sauce (€10); raw and puréed cauliflower with a soft-boiled egg and trout roe (€10); a half-lobster with crisp peas and haricots verts flavored with chamomile (€25); and the meal ended with a delicious chocolate ganache pimped out with olive oil and grey salt (€8) – or roasted apricot with buttermilk and a cilantro meringue (€7). It’s worth noting that there are some magnificent cuts of meat for two, like the roasted lamb shoulder (€50) that our carnivorous neighbors wolfed down with delight. To drink, there’s a beautiful selection of natural wines: a fruity Loire red from Laurent Herlin (€5.50 a galss), an Austrian white from Meinklang (€32 a bottle) or a red Glou from La Ferme des Septs Lunes from Jean Delobre. Plates €9-22, shared meats €25-70. // J.S.