Le Saint-Sebastien

Le Saint-Sebastien (Paris)

© Le Saint-Sébastien

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That which pleases is twice repeated! Chef Robert Mendoza has left to spice up the new iteration of Vivant, and now it’s his former sous-chef Christopher Edwards’ turn to run the Saint Séb’. This former neighborhood bistro has been brilliantly remodeled (a speckled tile floor, a Formica bar, sixties light fixtures) by Thomas Deck and Daniela Lavadenz, respectively one half of the founding members of the Montreuil beer company Deck & Donohue and the former pastry chef at Au Passage. Served à la carte the other night, the chef’s compositions hit the bull’s eye from start to finish: artichokes served with a very creamy ajo blanco (a chilled soup made with almonds and breadcrumbs), sprinkled with smoked almonds – or cheeky head cheese with fresh peas, electrified by grated horseradish and pickled cherries; perfect ricotta gnocchi served with eggplant tickled by the flames on the barbecue – or a perfectly prepared line-caught hake with potatoes from Île de Ré and an incredible beurre blanc sauce; before a sweet treat alchemizing spelt wheat, chestnut honey and a graceful jasmine ice cream for the grand finale… Incredible! // Antoine Antoine

FEELING THIRSTY? Nicolas Hulot has nothing to worry about, the 400 carefully sourced wines are still guaranteed to be produced sans herbicide: a taut Savoie Chasselas from the Domaine Lucas (€7 a glass), a Rhone blend from Éric Pfifferling (€60 a bottle), a macerated Savagnin from Philippe Bornard (€70)… Unless you opt for the “house” IPA by Deck & Donohue (€7 for 330 ml).

PRICE: À la carte €47-53.

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What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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