Essencia (Poligny)

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Like all good creameries in the Jura, you can count on Essencia to have aged Comté in stock – in this instance, aged for up to 33 months just a stone’s throw from Arbois. This soulful shop is owned by Philippe Bouvret, whose grandmother was already in the lactose business back in 1926, and whose father and grandfather were both wine merchants. The wooden ceiling resembles a cask, there’s an old-fashioned scale and an old countertop topped with delicious farm-fresh Époisse cheeses, Morbiers as supple as a gymnast (€17.50/kg), tomme du Poupet that’s the color of vin jaune, extra-fruity Comté (€19.50/kg)… Stinky cheeses that pair perfectly with the outstanding selection of charcuterie and wine carefully put together by the owner, whose wine cellar is overflowing with bottles from Tissot, Bouvot, Ganevat, Leroy and Kagami. In short, a discreet spot that truly has it all! // R.P.

Hidden gem: The multi-award winning honey collected by Johann and Mickaël Girard from Le Rucher des Deux Lacs (spring honey, €16/kg).

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