Another wine shop in Poligny! At the end of 2023, Sylvain Oudet (formerly of neighboring wine shop Epicurea) struck out on his own, opening his very own spot on the main square. Three rooms, three vibes: the first is a love letter to the Jura, stacked with local gems like Poésie, a trousseau-pinot-ploussard blend from La Bouchaude; a savagnin Blanc-Cuvé from Domaine des Cavarodes; or a floral Émile by Yann Bertrand. In the second, the owner leans fully into his obsession with the region’s emblematic vin jaune oxidative wines – including a rare arbois-pupillin from Julien Mareschal (€100 for 620 ml). And the final room opens the window wider, featuring bottles from elsewhere, like a natural German pear cider from Pascal Treichler. In between, there’s a joyful bedlam of small, rustic temptations, like bags of dried, mountain-foraged morels and grey knight mushrooms, or tins of sublime organic olive oil from Clémentine Bouveron and Gian Marco Antonuzi of Domaine Le Coste in Lazio. · Pascal Diagonale

THE HIDDEN GEM: Ultreïa, a riesling by Vincent Larcelet at Domaine du Petit Bouchon, a Jura native now making wine in Alsace. The best of both worlds for €29!