Culinary acrobats Salomé L’habitant and Nino Febvre have pitched their edible big top in a corner bistro on Rue Faramand (sunny yellow facade, snug interiors, blue-tiled floors, vintage floral print banquettes). From this open-kitchen stage, the duo juggle daring small plates and surprise-packed tasting menues with the flair of seasoned performers. That evening, perched at the counter, we let the ringmaster set the tempo: a spectacular No. 0 oyster from Morbihan, gently smoked and flashed on the BBQ, served with airy sabayon and a splash of vin jaune from Stéphane Tissot; charred green beans and figs, scattered over sheep’s milk yogurt, sharpened with garum and fig leaf oil; then a Jura-meets-Mexico number plus a dash of Szechuan influence with melting tripe, burnt lemon and a smoky flick of chipotle; before a blackcurrant and vanilla pavlova cleverly assembled by Salomé, for the grand finale. Bravo! · Pascal Diagonale

FEELING THIRSTY? Jura is out in full force: Blanc de Chamoz 2022 from Morgane Turlier (€48 a bottle), a savagnin vin jaune 2017 from Philippe Chatillon (€117) and Lumachelles 2023, a pinot noir from Domaine des Cavarodes (€38)… as well as Pierre de Faîte 2019, a beaujolais from Adeline and Hervé Ravera (€36).

PRICE: Set menus €35-55, plates €6-55.