Sain? It’s a bistro with a marbled facade, bare walls and Tolix chairs, where the Huitric brothers combined their two first names, Samuel (front of house) and Josselin (in the kitchen), which also happens to mean “healthy” in French. These two local kids – from a four-generation family of market farmers in Guérande – know all about locally-sourced eats: bread from Painbar, cheeses from La Laiterie Nantaise, fruit and vegetables from the family-run organic farm… The night we went, Josselin sent out a comforting country terrine with zucchini jam and pickled onions; followed by pearly hake, spelt wheat with cream of zucchini, beurre blanc sauce and raspberries; and an unexpected pavlova with strawberries and peas! In their épicerie section, you’ll find vegetables, eggs, canned goods, spices, coffees, teas, and a selection of natural wines. // Catherine Jamon 

FEELING THIRSTY? Around a hundred labels of 100% Loire living wines: a Muscadet from Éric Chevalier (€4 a glass), a sparkling Chenin from the Domaine Les Terres Blanches (€35 a bottle), Statera, a Loire Pinot noir from the Domaine de Bellevue (€80)… 
PRICE: Set menus €18-22 (lunch), à la carte €33-37 (dinner).