Le Mirza

Have you seen Le Mirza? If we were you, we’d head back to the farmers’ market in Talensac… That’s because François Rouillé (front of house / sommelier), Julien Moniz and Maxime Delalande (in the kitchen), who became friends during their time at Le Brocéliande, combine good drinks and good food there in their neo-retro joint complete with casson mosaic tile floors, a Formica-topped bar, bistro tables and palmette chairs. Anyways, the night we went, the plates served at the bar were pretty damn impressive: divine flatbread served warm and covered in button mushrooms and kimchi under a veil of smoked tomme cheese; incredible shallot and miso tarte tatin served with raw cream sprinkled with spring onions – or, eyeballed on the next table over, flame-charred mackerel with smoked mackerel bone cream, plus celery and kiwi… Before a stunning finale: diced pear camouflaged under Japanese mizuna sorbet and meringue. // Lester Grossman

FEELING THIRSTY? : A wine list that tends towards the natural and local variety: Ker Ma, a Nantes melon from the Domaine Complémen’Terre (€4.50 a glass), Ismaël, an Anjou grolleau produced by Margot Rousseau-Petit and Natalia Santo (€33 a bottle), local beer on tap from the Aerofab micro-brewery (€8 for a pint) or apple juice from the Cidrerie de l’Apothicaire (€4 a glass).
PRICE: : Plates €7-20.