A certain Renaud lyric might come to mind as you approach this bistro that’s been here since June of 2019: a terrace surrounded by ribbon bunting fluttering in the wind, an octopus drawn by illustrator friend Pierre Poux adorning the facade, an interior done up in light wood, with lots of green plants and an old banquette. It’s run by Léo Huet (in the kitchen) and Maximilien Degroise (in the dining room), who left us stunned the other day at lunch: refreshing zucchini soup with a minty kick, crushed Kalamata olives and crunchy almonds; then disk-shaped pasta placed atop an oeuf parfait with oyster mushrooms and beets; and a chocolatey finale with mousse and dacquoise (which was a little dry), plus a nice pine espuma. And at night, it’s a knock-out punch with cream of langoustine, udon, shiitake mushrooms and nori; kakuni pork with broad beans, enoki mushrooms and bok choy; and a yuzu, sea lettuce, puffed quinoa and chocolate combo for dessert. // Henriette Ma
FEELING THIRSTY? Loire wines – a red Saumur from Emmanuel Haget (€5.50 a glass), Ô Frères, a Muscadet from David Landron (€24 a bottle) – along with Beaujolais wines from Bernard Valette (€5 a glass) or Full Color, an Aude Mourvèdre from Benoît Arletaz (€28 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menus €17-21 (lunch) and €30-35 (dinner).
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