Obbo

Once the former pastry chef for Alexandre Couillon at La Marine (Noirmoutier), Antoine Gaudin has now returned to his hometown of Nantes to open up this joyful crossover spot, which triples as a tearoom, a dessert restaurant and a wine bar all at the same time. In a space with unfinished walls, vintage tables and wicker light fixtures, the young ponytailed chef sends out small plates that will light up your taste buds, where a floating island winds up in green waters with marigold sorbet and chervil crème anglaise, or the classic millefeuille takes a turn for the savory, prepared with sardines and parsnips. For us, the other day at lunch: an incredible mushroom duxelles tartlet with a black garlic condiment and coppery sweet tooth mushroom powder; a delightful sausage in brioche served with a miso mayonnaise; before tender butternut squash petals with sesame seeds and a lemon-apple condiment, and then some incredible slices of slow-cooked beet nestled amongst some cacao meringue, with spiced crumble and a red wine vinegar ice cream. Other fine options include the 100% dessert menus or the apéros with tapas, where you can nibble on savory cakes, charcuterie from the Maison Berjac and homemade cumin-coriander biscuits. // Thomas Jossin

FEELING THIRSTY? The former sommelier at Pickles, Guillaume Claireau has put together a drinks menu with plenty to look forward to: a Minervois from the Domaine Hegarty Chamans (€6 a glass), a Vendée beer from Barbe Bleue (€5.20 for 330 ml), verveine liqueur from Le Forez (€8 a glass)…
PRICE: Plates €6 to €8.50, platters €16, dessert menus €18-32, brunch €25 (Sunday).