In his luxurious cave à manger (big wooden shelves, a white tile bar, industrial light fixtures), Nicolas Bersagol has raised the bar pretty high! The former boss of the restaurant Les Charbonniers boasts a collection of no fewer than 300 labels of natural wine, including the crème de la crème of sulfite-free Loire wines (Pesnot, Landron, Bretaudeau…) and rising stars from elsewhere (Pauline Broqua in the Aveyron, Jean-Baptiste Menigoz in the Jura, Domaine des Rouges-Queues in Burgundy…). And not satisfied with just kicking the barrel of traditional wines down the road, Nico offers more than 80 craft beers, which you can sponge up at lunch with a slice of pâté en croûte or salt cod accras, or at night with cheese and charcuterie platters. // A.A.
The bullet-proof bottle: Le Jaja de Plaisance (€14), the fruit of a partnership between La Maison Jaja and the Château de Plaisance.