Omija (Nantes)

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Say goodbye to La Raffinerie and hello to Omija! Nicolas Bourget folded up his apron in 2019 and handed over the keys to his bistro to Romain Bonnet, a former chef at Le Manoir de la Boulaie (Haute-Goulaine) who also used to work for Gagnaire in Paris. Don’t expect any big changes in the dining room (rough stone walls, a kitchen under a glass canopy), however as for the food, it’s shot to new heights! For us the day we went for lunch recently: a delicious œuf parfait atop a bed of sunchoke cream with a passion fruit brunoise for an extra kick; guinea fowl with a chestnut stuffing on a bed of sautéed oyster mushrooms, all intensified by a sublime savory jus; before a beautiful lime floating island. At night, the menus get a little fancier: duck foie gras with a koji, tourteau crab from Loctudy and a verbena vinegar, line-caught Albacore tuna poached in samphire butter, etc. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are biodynamic wines selected by Romain, who used to work at La Raffinerie: an Aude red from Le Vin des Potes (€6.50 a glass), a Saumur white from the Domaine Mélaric (€42 a bottle), a Côtes-Catalanes white from Le Soula (€65), not to mention the beautiful Loire producers – Niger, Reau, Bain…

PRICE: Set menus €19-24 (lunch), €38-65 (dinner).

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