Bairoz

Sounding Breton to some, Portuguese to others, Bairoz also evokes the famous spice, and cultivates an air of mystery about it. But the restaurant by the same name is clear as day! The decor is sleek, with its stone wall, blonde wood tables and pine green tones. And best of all are the head-spinning plates by Estelle Méheust (in the kitchen) and Jérôme Berdelou (pastries, both sweet and savory), and even the homemade bread. The day we went for lunch, there was nothing to criticize: a delicate artichoke poivrade paired with an impressive chive fougasse, all caressed by fromage frais from the Ferme de Bois Joubert; Nantes veal from the Ferme des 9 Journaux, sliced thinly, vitello-tonnato-style, with green asparagus, anchovies, grated Breton tomme and an addictive tartare sauce; and for dessert, crémet-d’Anjou-style faisselle cheese, taken to the next level with added chestnut honey, rhubarb sorbet and some crumbled gavotte cookie. // Larosé 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Well-chosen wines from independent winemakers: a Corsican rosé from Le Clos Venturi (€7 a glass), Orphée, an elegant sauvignon from the Domaine Les Poëte (€55 a bottle), Les Moulins, a saumur red from the Domaine Guiberteau (€35), and coffee from the excellent Nantes roaster Cime (€2.70 for an espresso). 
PRICE: : Set menus €21-26 (lunch), €52 and €64.