Restaurant Emporietto (Nantes)

© Emporietto

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After a lot of searching, the “petit emporio” found what it had been looking for! Gone are the days of this transalpine fine foods shop being brilliantly run by Fiorella Giuducci. Now it’s her son, Jonas Le Fillastre, and his talented team who have turned a chaotic shop into an outstanding osteria. Much like in a speakeasy, you first need to push open the porte-cochère to find this little hideaway at the back of a courtyard, which has everything you could ever need: a dreamy terrace, an immense wine cellar with vaulted ceilings… And best of all, fresh, bold cuisine that is anything but ordinary: smoked potatoes mixed with spider crab butter, arugula pesto and a green crab tuile; followed by al dente squid ink risotto with pistachio cream and generously grated Sardinian bottarga; and to round out the meal – after some French and Italian farm-fresh cheeses from the Crèmerie des Carmélites – an exquisite dessert of the same ilk, aka lime shortbread with kumquat ganache and candied kumquat, kalamansi jelly and Timut pepper meringue. // François Larosé 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Around a hundred natural wines from Italy: Terre Silvate, a mineral white from La Distesa in Le Marche (€8 a glass), Campanie Don Chisciotte, a magnificent skin-contact wine from Pierluigi Zampaglione (€45 a bottle), or even a crisp Liguria red, Rupestro from Il Monticello (€35). 
PRICE: : Set menu €26.50 to €30 (lunch), €45 (dinner). 

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