Once you arrive in Chassignolles, a village of 60 souls deep in the Haut-Livradois region, it’s impossible to miss this imposing inn owned by Peter Taylor, camped out across from the Roman church. After residencies featuring chefs from New Zealand (Mike Hazlewood), Norway (Thomas Haugstvedt), the US (Matthew Robertson) and Australia (Sebastian Myers), the Brit handed over the reins to his fellow countrymen Felix Reade and Jamie Smart (ex-St. John in London) for the 2020 season. Following in their predecessors’ footsteps, they went full steam ahead and followed the organic, local route, picking vegetables from the garden and sourcing other ingredients from the markets in Brioude or Ambert. The night we went for dinner, the menu featured delicious slices of toasted bread topped with a thick layer of duck liver mousse, decorated with fresh figs and beetroot confit; a translucent vegetable broth served warm with grilled beans and semi-dried tomatoes; juicy chicken breast with crispy skin, roasted zucchini, whole roasted garlic (incredible!) and a British-style herby cream sauce; before a slice of damson plum and frangipane tart that was even better than your grandma could make, paired with an outstanding raw milk ice cream! // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines and nothing else: an Auvergne Pinot noir from Vincent and Marie Tricot (€7 a glass), an Anjou Chenin from the Domaine Les Grandes Vignes (€6), an Ardèche red from Andrea Calek (€22 a bottle), a sparkling rosé from Patrick Bouju (€35), a macerated Burgundy white from Fred Cossard (€66), a Jura vin jaune from Jean-François Ganevat (€200)…

PRICE: Menus €28.50 (dinner), €25 (Sunday lunch), quick lunches €9-15. Double rooms starting at €60 a night at the inn.