Le Barbu

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A stone’s throw from the Place de la Victoire, wine merchant Loïc Chabrout, who sports a beard and round-frame glasses, sells his honest wines. His concise but well-chosen selection brings together vintages from Burgundy (Athénaïs de Béru), Auvergne (Mas des Agrunelles), Champagne (Clandestine) and the south (Bruno Duchêne), disseminated here and there in this tiny shop with blonde wooden block shelving and Michel Tolmer wine posters. We opted for Schoffweg, an Alsatian white from the Deiss family (€45), Pom’N’Roll, a red blend from the Château Gombaude-Guillot (€39) and Festejar, a crisp sparkling gamay from Auvergne winemaker Patrick Bouju (€27). But he also has a collection of craft beers (La Débauche, Brasserie des Sagnes, Ilkley) and even charcuterie from the Talon delicatessen. // Gwen Jacquère  

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Alsace Rouge 2021 from Marcel Deiss, already impressive but worth aging for a few more years (€27). 

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