Unico (Lyon)


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In Lyon, you can gauge the day’s temperature by the length of the line outside of Unico. Inside, there’s a bar, a few tables and a windowed kitchen where you’ll find Julia Canu and Tiago Barbosa hard at work! This Corsican-Brazilian duo trained at the Institut Bocuse and earned their stripes under Geronimi. Their signature approach? Seasonal sorbets made with fresh fruit, that are never overly sweet, and that sometimes feel quite pure, like the cherry flavor, or the homemade cone filled with blood peach sorbet or roasted (skin-on) apricot and rosemary sorbet. As for the ice creams, there are more indulgent creations, like the sublime organic Spanish pistachio ice cream, or the one made with herbs from the maquis scrubland in the south of France (€2.90 to €5.90 for a pint). And for big and little kids alike, there are caramel ice cream popsicles topped with chocolate and peanuts. // D.S.

Hidden gem: A round-trip voyage from Corsica to Brazil via a very refreshing combo of olive oil, maquis herbs and vanilla (€3.90 for two scoops).

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