Arnaud Laverdin has packed up and left! After his time at La Bijouterie (winner of the 2016 Fooding d’amour prize), you’ll now find him slightly farther west on rue de la Martinière, putting an emphasis on everything street: street art hung on the walls (by Wenc and Invader) and street food on the tables. The day we went, the €21 lunch option included: a plump steamed brioche bun stuffed with shredded pork, peanuts and star anise, plus a slurpable bowl of ramen with superfine pork loin in a chicken-miso consommé. At night, things get taken up a notch: delicious breaded fried chicken served with an amazing XO mayonnaise made with fermented scallops (€15); delicate ravioles du Royans and shiitakes swimming around in a roast chicken and smoked butter broth (€13); spectacular trout imprisoned in a dashi ponzu jelly (€8); or even a wonderful raw choucroute with sea urchins and cream cheese seasoned with pink peppercorns (€10). Not to mention the crazy sweets from the very daring pastry chef Rémy Havetz: kiwi with Beaufort cheese (€8); pretzel ice cream with browned butter (€9); gianduja and cilantro gyoza (€7)… The drinks menu keeps prices tight: a dry Chardo from Le Clos de Jerminy by Gilles Wicky (€5 a glass), an Austrian red, Beck Ink (€25 a bottle), or a very steep La Pente from the Savoyard estate Les Côtes Rousses (€25 a bottle). Lunch option €21, à la carte €32-48. // A.S.