Sapnà (Lyon)

© Nicolas Villon

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A stone’s throw from his restaurant La Bijouterie, Arnaud Laverdin puts an emphasis on everything street-related: street art hung on the walls (by Wenc and Invader) and street food on the tables. So why not opt for a bao burger at lunch, available in various styles: slow-roasted pork belly, pink ginger and cilantro; crispy fish with nori and sauce gribiche… or come at night, when a dozen small plates make their way out onto the tables: silky haddock taramasalata with Padrón peppers, chicken skin crumble (!) and harissa; a striking meagre ceviche with puffed black rice and a Balinese coconut hot sauce; a delicate langoustine ravioli in an umami-esque consommé with Thai basil and a smoked chili oil; or even some incredibly tender teriyaki pork belly paired with pink ginger… Not to mention the wild desserts from pastry chef Rémy Havet (ex-Dorchester in London, who also crafts the dessert menu at La Bijouterie), like the dark chocolate, sea lettuce, lemon and samphire combo, or roasted apricots served with an herb sorbet and fresh peas! // G.V.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a concise wine list: Piste Rouge, a Savoyard red from Nicolas Ferrand (€5 a glass), a Cheverny from the Domaine des Huards (€35 a bottle), a Jura white from Gilles Wicky (€38)…. Along with homemade lemonade (€3 a glass) and even a large selection of Chartreuse – yellow, green, Cuvée des MOF… (€8 to €14 a glass).
Fixed-price menus €21-26 (Fridays at lunch, €26 on Saturdays), small plates €6-16 (dinner).

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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