It’s already been three years since Antoine Kochen, the owner of Odessa Comptoir with his brother Mathieu, duplicated their wine shop on the other side of the Presqu’île. What should expect from Jaja? A dual space, with an art gallery run by photographers Chloé Courbière and Laura Jalbert on one side, and a full wall covered in bottles of natural wine on the other, with everything from comforting options (Philippe Valette in Burgundy, Julien Guillot in Mâcon, the Domaine Richaud in the Rhone Valley…) to a few more mischievous bottles. A random selection from the day we stopped by: Mariage Plus Vieux, a Sylvaner-Gewurzt’ blend from the Domaine in Black (€20 a bottle); a Syrah-Gamay blend from Étienne Seignovert (€16); or a 2020 Veronnet Altesse (€20), the first vintage from Corentin Houillon. // D.S.

The bullet-proof bottle: Serre m’Amphore, a Gamay from the Domaine des Grottes (€28).