L'Etabli (Lyon)

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In this beautiful corner restaurant that houses an impressive woodworker’s piece, moss green leather chairs and an electric blue bar, Louis Fargeton (ex-Christian Têtedoie) strikes a balance between modernity and authenticity, and is always on the lookout for the best artisanal wares – such as the Jean-Loup Balitrand-designed Schlass knives, which you choose your own before the meal begins. Blade in hand, we’re ready to take on the lunch menu’s sensational plates: delicate fish roe, lemon jelly, powdered ginger and scallops; delicious chicken oysters with artichokes poached in vanilla; sculptural skate roasted in butter, yacón compote and pickles; incredible beef cheeks cooked in red wine, roasted carrot purée and cardamom; before yuzu shortbread with beets, hibiscus ice cream and caramelized hazelnuts. // G.V.

Over 80 labels of mostly clean wines: L’Ame de Font, an Anjou blanc from Le Fief Noir (€7 a glass), a Pays-d’Hérault red from La Terrasse d’Elise (€47 a bottle), Foudre à Canon, an Arbois-Pupillin white from the Domaine de la Borde (€45)…
PRICE: Menus €28 (lunch), €54 and €69 (lunch and dinner).

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