Olivier Fonteneau, the former chief human resources officer at Club Med, traded in his white collared shirts for an apron! Posted up in the Vieux Lyon neighborhood, his épicerie overflows with mouthwatering goods: charcuterie from the Ain department, Cornand pasta from St. Etienne, Kura de Bourgogne miso… But that’s not all! There’s a nice bistro tucked away in the backroom (blonde hardwood floors, mallard green walls, hanging Edison bulbs), where two missing persons of the Lyonnais food scene are hard at work: Davia Chambon, one of the former chefs of the now-closed restaurant Deux Filles en Cuisine, and Mélik Debadji, the founder of L’Ebauche. Together, they crafted a very thoughtful lunch menu the other day: adorable pan-fried red mullet fillets with a silky celery cream and pomegranate seeds; thick slices of flash-seared Charolais beef, with mashed kabocha squash, sunchoke chips and purslane; before a delicious apple-quince millefeuille. It’s worth noting that Wednesdays and Saturdays at lunch, everyone gets roast chicken or roast beef, while at night, even cheapskates are unable to resist the unbeatable six-course prix-fixe menu (€35!) for the whole table – ex.: leeks, bottarga, pistachio; onions, Parmesan cream, hazelnut black bread; roasted cauliflower, almond milk, anchovies, etc. // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? Nice naturalist wines: a Beaujolais-Villages red from Fabien Forest (€6 a glass), a Régnié from Christian Ducroux (€35 a bottle), a Loire Chenin from the Mosses (€42)…
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €19 (lunch) and €35 (dinner).