A wall lined with bottles, a zinc-topped bar, Formica tables, exposed light bulbs… Opened in 2017 by brothers Antoine and Mathieu Kochen, Odessa Comptoir isn’t done quenching the thirst of the people of the Pentes de la Croix-Rousse neighborhood! And for good reason: the wine bar offers no fewer than a dozen naturalist options served by the glass (€5-7), including Philippe Brand’s macerated Riesling-Gewurzt’ blend, not to mention the “livre de cave” wine book, which is actually a few pieces of printer paper stapled together, filled with gems sold by the bottle. Starting with L’Antidote, a Gamay from the Domaine des Grottes (€16 a bottle), Chatons de Garde, an Ardèche Syrah from Andréa Calek (€24), or Les Alpes, a Savoie Gringet from Belluard (€49). Sponge it all up in house with something like steak tartare, a cheese plate or apple cake. // D.S.

The bullet-proof bottle: Cotillon des Dames, a Jacquère orange wine from Jean-Yves Péron (€46).