After 40 years running one of the oldest butcher shops in the city, the Reinier family handed over the reins to Gilles De Bechevel, who converted the shop into an organic one, established close connections with his suppliers (the Domaine du Carré Vert and their pigs in the Ain department, Christophe Vuillot and his Bresse chickens…), gifted himself a laboratory (located in Saint-Didier-au-Mont-d’Or), a dry-aging space (behind glass), a cellar for his charcuterie, and teamed up with two associates (Cyrielle Cauty and Thomas Ramel). And the butcher now sells his own specialty beef (€44/kg for the rump steak), a crossbreed of wagyu and Angus cattle dreamt up in collaboration with the Domaine de Coiffard, which also provides beautiful, organic Limousine steaks (€35.90/kg for a flank steak). What else? Highland cows that he receives whole from the Domaine de Bellecour, black lamb from Le Velay, Kintoa pork from the Vallée des Aldudes, homemade gendarme semi-dried sausages, or even smoked sausage, which they serve over at Micro Sillon. // D.S.

Hidden gem: The rustic T-bone pork chop (€30/kg) with its impressively thick layer of fat.