We saw the Virgin on Lyon’s peninsula! At the foot of the hill that leads to the Croix-Rousse neighborhood, La Madone (black and white checkered floors, a bottle-green bar, religious icons everywhere) made a Marian apparition… In this unpretentious bar, we fill our glasses with fruity Eau Bénite (Chambord and prosecco, €5.50), Lillet Rosé Spritz (€6.50), or other mixtures made with liqueurs dating from the time of Methuselah – like the spicy Byrrh to Bitt made with a mix of cinchona Byrrh, tonic and bitters (€6.50). And for all those abstaining? There aren’t any mocktails, but there are organic soft drinks, like Charitea lemonade or iced tea – €3.90 for 330 ml. Any snacks? There’s generous burrata (€8), platters of Italian charcuterie (€12), etc. // G.V.