Orfenor

Much like the eponymous novel by Myrielle Marc, the Orfenor inn is writing a new chapter in the story of the Auvergne village of Brioude and its hungry inhabitants. In a big house that just oozes charm, this family tale has been led for the last two years by sisters Laura and Lucie Victor, who look after guests and the antiques shop next door, backed up by Zach Watson and Charles Caldow in the kitchen. Their father will sometimes bring the dishes of the day out to guests seated in the colorful garden patio. The day we went for lunch: fresh cucumber from their friend Max Laurençon, topped with a fourme d’Ambert sauce made with cheese from the Ferme de Ferrand; a classic but efficient chicken curry tikka masala with eggplant bhuna, competing for center stage with the croque monsieur/salad combo that’s very popular with the locals; before a dense chocolate and chestnut purée lava cake served with a classic scoop of vanilla ice cream. Otherwise, if you want to order à la carte, there’s a gourmet burger (topped with lettuce, tomato, cheddar, homemade ketchup, homemade mayonnaise, homemade pickles, on homemade bread, with homemade fries!). // Guillaume Bulot

FEELING THIRSTY? The Auvergne region in all its natural splendor: La Volcanique, a Gamay from La Cave Forézienne Verdier Logel (€3.50 a glass), Wine in the Afternoon, a white from Stéphan Elzière (€22 a bottle), beers from the Brasserie Barbaroux in Chassagne (€5 for 330 ml), artisan apple juice (€2.50 a glass).
PRICE: Set menus €15-18 (lunch), à la carte €22-27 (dinner), brunch €5-9 a plate (Sunday).