“How’s the chenin drinking?” That’s a question you can ask again on Île Saint-Louis (first names and tu all round) now that Camilia Cherf has taken the keys to the legendary L’Étiquette. Cut to young Le Figuier, equal parts good-time wine shop and snacking counter. Already supplying Paris’s little natural-wine world through her agency Effervescence, this discerning drinker needs little encouragement to crack open one smart, highly drinkable pick after another. It’s the kind of place where it’s easy to go with the flow, whether you’re feeling adventurous (even if it’s not love at first sip) or playing it safe (she’s got plenty to see you through), all in the solid company of Utah Beach oysters, Comté aged for 30 months from Essencia, terrine from Viande Viande and spot-on small plates. Plus a postcard-Paris backdrop, bisous and berets included! · Albert Cramé

Drank: O Baile du Gurrión, an incredible Aragonese blend from micro-producer Jorge Olivera that we’d happily have shared a bottle of that night (€11 a glass, €52 a bottle in house).