Pluto

Bringing together good eats and beautiful art? That’s the goal at the Lafayette Anticipations contemporary arts center, which found its muse in Thomas Coupeau (ex-We Are Ona and Cloche), who nestled his restaurant Pluto into the metal and concrete space. With a name borrowed from Mickey’s dog and the Roman god of the underworld, you’ll find asymmetrical tables, tawny banquettes and an open kitchen where the chef bounces around between childlike playfulness and adult indulgences: a pulsating pissaladière as the very exciting amuse-bouche, which looked like a little cloud of golden flaky pastry crust, complete with slow-roasted onions and an olive wrapped in anchovy; a cluster of crisp and explosively flavorful haricots verts, plus cherries, tarragon, pecans, primrose flowers and elderflower blossoms, all doused in a perfectly prepared beurre blanc sauce infused with savagnin; a mapo tofu-inspired hachis parmentier (shepherd’s pie) that was a total knockout, with some added ‘nduja to spice things up (and tempered by some light Parmesan mashed potatoes), salad glistening in olive oil and lemon on the side; and a diabolically good chocolate lava cake with a rich Taggiasche olive crème anglaise and some fiery olive oil drizzled on top. FYI: Pluto also moonlights as an excellent coffee shop and tearoom in the afternoons! // Philo Sale-Ami

FEELING THIRSTY? : Bottles that have the good taste not to break the bank: a Loire sauvignon from Le Clos du Tue Boeuf (€7.50 a glass), Initial, an Arbois chardonnay produced by Jêrome Arnoux (€42 a bottle), Mol, an Auvergne red blend by Justine Loiseau and Patrick Bouju (€44)… Plus Vivant kombucha for something non-alcoholic (€6.50 for 250 ml).
PRICE: : Plates €15-23 (lunch), à la carte €44-49, tapas €5-10 (dinner), pastries €3-10.