Inveterate seekers of wild wines, Étienne and Jules can be found popping open bottles in their miniature wine bar on Rue Tiquetonne, decked out with polychromatic mosaic tile floors and a burgundy red banquette. The duo has put together a collection of 250 bottles in the adjacent cellar, where you’ll find options like Feu I, an Hérault orange wine from La Sorga (€42 a bottle), Le Rouge, a Poulsard from the Domaine de la Loue (€41), Tracotanza, a Sicilian red from Davide Bentivegna (€48), or even, to celebrate your engagement, Sous le Mont, a Champagne produced by Jacques Sélosse (€280). Pair them all with simple but carefully made small plates, like a bass and cilantro gravlax, ribs in bourbon and malt vinegar sauce or sardines roasted with shiso. // Ninsu 

The bullet-proof bottle: Mazière, an Aude Syrah from the talented Fabrice Monnin (€30).