Underneath a sanctuary to sake, there’s a temple dedicated to malt drinks…. The Golden Promise – named after a type of Scottish barley – is located below Youlin Ly’s brand new Maison du Saké. Designed by the JBMN architects and supplied by the La Maison du Whisky in Clichy, this maze of vaulted alcoves with shelves full of amber bottles (1,000 different types of whiskey!), stonewalls and steel-wood furniture, is a cross between a James Bond villain’s lair and a clandestine gentlemen’s club. Seated around a table/crucifix, we opted for a glass of Kavalan (€12), an intense and spicy Taiwanese single malt, tempered by a chaser – a small shot of xeres and cherry liqueur…. Before moving on to a lovely Smoking Horse cocktail (Kilchoman Bramble liqueur, lemon juice, tarragon, sparkling water, Aphrodite bitters, €13), which bridged the gap between freshness and peatiness. And don’t forget about the small menu of Japanese snacks (edamame, corn tempura, from €4 to €6) and the immense table in the tasting room, where whiskey lovers can savor the various nectars in their purest forms (€11-235 a glass). // A.B.