Make Shabour, not war! At this restaurant with rough stone walls, Israeli chef Assaf Granit (Balagan) shows off his various talents for an enamored crowd, seated around a marble bar that’s wrapped around the central kitchen lit by candlelight. Created with his accomplices Dan Yosha, Uri Navon and Tomer Lanzman, this magical lair will grab you by the heartstrings (dishes the combine Ashkenzai and Sephardic classics, opera music playing in the background, incredibly kind staff)! Much like during our last meal there: a tender plum with yogurt icing, for a tangy prelude to the meal; raw langoustines bathed in an ultra-addictive matbukha consommé (a tomato-pepper compote), launched into orbit by a Baharat spice mix; a soft-boiled egg marinated in black tea, buried under a quilt of tahini sprinkled with salmon roe, served with challah to wipe your plate clean; a revolutionary borsch soup with lobster and pickled beetroot, plus a feta-horseradish cream and dill oil; before the dessert accompanied by a few extras (a small serving of grapes and mirabelle plums over here, pistachios over there), an orgasmic ladleful of chocolate mousse, sprinkled with Maldon salt and drizzled in olive oil. // Ninsu
FEELING THIRSTY? An exploratory menu: an Argentine Torrentés from El Esteco (€15 a glass), a Côte-Rôtie from Christophe Semeska (€124 a bottle), a New Zealand Chardonnay from Kumeu River (€132)… And over the course of the meal, small, magical shots that are provided free of charge by the house – cucumber / lime vodka, dill syrup, mint and basil, etc.
PRICE: Menus €64 (lunch) and €96 (dinner).
