Tekés

What is Tekés exactly? First off, it’s an efficient way to earn 14 points in a game of Scrabble, and second of all, it’s the Hierosolymitan (28 points) lair of Assaf Granit, an Israeli special envoy to Paris, who is already responsible for Balagan and Shabour – Le Fooding’s Best Bar à delice of 2020. In this spacious, candlelit spot, he and chef Cécile Lévy (ex-The Normand Hotel in Tel Aviv) elevate plant life, all while paying homage to the earth – right down to the Indian earthen tableware. All of the following graced our plates the night we went: a joyfully delicious butter and sage galette served with creamy labneh for dipping; firm kohlrabi slivers sprinkled with fresh herbs; a mushroom brunoise paired with date molasses and topped with an umami-esque egg yolk; tender potato gnocchi with Parmesan tuiles, sorrel and black sesame seeds; before an intriguing mushroom mousse sprinkled with chocolate granola. // Agathe Braun

FEELING THIRSTY? Timothée Delignant opens up his treasure-laden wine cellar to guests: the house’s sparkling Tekés rosé (€12 a glass), a Galician white by Quinta da Muradella (€13), a Châteauneuf-du-pape from the Domaine de Villeneuve (€19)… We’ll be back sometime soon to test out the cocktail and freshly pressed juice bar.
PRICE: Appetizers €9-23, mains €14-25, desserts €8-9.