Despite its neon sign with a red-light district vibe about it, tourists along the Quai aux Briques pass in front of La Flaque with barely a glance. So much the better, as it leaves more wine for the rest of us! So, who’s behind the yellow tiled counter? Bottle-heads Farid Al Aflak, Alex Cesaroni (ex-Certo) and Charlooye Carmona, who quietly set the mood for this date-appropriate wine bar packed with glitter, trinkets and candles. And if you order rosé, Farid doesn’t even roll his eyes as he pours a glass of Spostato, a cool Lombard Merlot rosé from Case Vecchie. What about a white? Or a red? The Tanca Nica wines from Pantelleria island will certainly do the trick, paired with polpette (€10) and arancini with slow-cooked shallot, peas and mint (€12). And don’t forget to check out the disco lights in the bathroom! // Mary Martin

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: The unfiltered white from Ruvido Wines in Abruzzo (€35).