A butcher by trade, a wine merchant by obsession! Since taking over the family butcher shop with his wife Tamara in 1992, Frank Devos has gradually let wine bottles take over the shelves, turning the place into a bona fide hideout for lovers of living wines. These days, some 700 labels crowd the shelves – enough to make some of the country’s finest wine cellars jealous – jostling for space with Berkshire pork cuts, house-made charcuterie and cheeses from Van Tricht. The owner makes no secret of his soft spot for the Jura: Bruyère-Houillon, Marnes Blanches, Grappe, Thiébau and La Borde – the gang’s all here, alongside plenty of other heavy hitters, from Lassaigne and Barral to Bouju, Dard & Ribo, Foillard, Valette and Robinot! Among the gems up for grabs that day: a chenin from Domaine des Brumes (€16.25 a bottle), Tout Feu Tout Femme, a grenache from Laura Aillaud in Luberon (€21.50) and Más a Tierra, a Burgundy pinot noir from La Petite Empreinte (€37.75). On the walls of this half butcher shop, half wine cellar, illustrated pigs clink glasses – and who can blame them? · Mezca Lita

Bullet-proof bottle: Éolithe, a Loire cabernet franc aged in concrete vats by Château de Fosse-Sèche (€28,50).