After their many travels, Landes local Alexandre Goniak and New Zealand-Fiji-native Gerie Jenner (who met at Meat Fish Wine in Melbourne) are making the village of Cadillac purr. In a sleek space with stone walls and domed light fixtures, they serve fresh market fare (Bazas beef, vegetables from Virelade and Le Conservatoire du Goût in Floirac…) in an intuitive neo-bistro that is perfectly calibrated. The day we went for lunch, we had a beautifully runny oeuf parfait atop potato mouse and brunoise spiced with garam masala, hidden under thinly sliced haricots verts, Pyrenees porc noir bacon and pink garlic blossoms; lovely grilled and roasted sea beam, served with sautéed oyster mushrooms, tangy Breton seaweed and thinly sliced raw porcini mushroom, moistened by a dashi emulsion; before delicious roast apricots, white chocolate mousse dotted with white chocolate cream and fennel blossoms, plus fennel sorbet. // Gérard Roubeix

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from both here and elsewhere: a Graves white from the Château Jouvente (€7 a glass), a Castillon from the Domaine de L’A (€49 a bottle), Coucher de Soleil, a skin-contact white from the Château de Cérons (€37).
PRICE: Set menu €24-28 (lunch), prix-fixe menus €45 and €55 (dinner).