At the corner of an improbable crossroads, lost in an anonymous part of central Antwerp, Semmy Roumans and Esger Van Lysebetten thought they were setting themselves up for a happy, hidden life by locating Bar Pêche outside of the trendy circuit. Their plan has failed, as the sixteen-seater micro-bistro quickly became a foodie trap. But the two friends remain defiant in the face of the onslaught, holding course with a combo of friendly vibes and unadorned simplicity. Semmy (Ex-Veranda) is at home in the open kitchen, sending out dazzling dishes rooted in tradition: mackerel tartare, horseradish mayonnaise and rhubarb juice as an overture – although it was a tight toss-up with the oxtail with cream of potato and mushrooms; ecstatic homemade blood sausage served on a bed of mustardy cabbage and potatoes with bacon; before a suave Dame Blanche to seal the deal. // Kiko Zushi

FEELING THIRSTY? The aptly named Hey! an orgasmic Catalan white from Amós Bañeres (€8 a glass), Vom Granit, a German Pinot noir Vom Granit from Weingut Schloss Schönberg (€7.50), Saltamarti Negre, a Catalan Tempranillo from Els Vinyerons (€28 a bottle).

PRICE: Menu €54-60.