SmaakNatie is the kind of lunch spot you wished you lived above. Think deli counter meets laid-back eatery, serving no-nonsense fare that’s bound to become a neighborhood obsession now that Dirk Baeken is running the show. His secret recipe? A stripped-back setting (tiled walls, large neon lights, an open kitchen) where you can demolish vibrant, 100% homemade Italian-Belgian dishes, to the soundtrack of loyal locals and hungry creatives coming and going. The day we swung by, the counter display was lined with mouthwatering salads, tempting quiches and stews just like grandma used to make – only better! But we went all-in on a massive stuffed pepper packed to the brim, all juicy and wonderfully aromatic, plus a generous slab of eggplant parmigiana with a crisp, golden crust and a tender, gooey heart. And to finish? Desserts that played by the book, like Basque flan and a rich, velvety chocolate mousse. · Gordon Bleu

FEELING THIRSTY? A small but classic wine list (a Provençal red from Domaine du Trapadis at €7 a glass, a Languedoc chardonnay from Les Turitelles at €35 a bottle), Estaminet non-alcoholic beer (€2.90 for 250 ml) or Ritchie lemonade (€3.90 for 275 ml).

PRICE: À la carte €25-45.