Baston (Bordeaux)

© Julia La Pose Gourmande

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With its flashy yellow facade and name that means trouble in French, Baston could have easily been a fiery speakeasy or an underground fight club. But it was actually born from a shared love of sourdough! That of Pauline Celle (ex-Pain Paulin in Lège-Cap-Ferret) and Julien Borie (ex-Echo), the happy duo behind this fresh café bakery with minimalist décor (waxed concrete floors, white walls, blonde wooden furniture). Since June, the former’s been baking plump loaves, focaccias that’ll have you singing the Ave Maria and impeccable brioche, while the latter crafts calming dishes from inside the open kitchen. Our lunch the day we went was a fine demonstration of their combined talents: a lovely mussels marinière salad with sauce vierge and fig leaf oil, styled with a mountain of matchstick fries; crispy yet tender pork belly nestled into a rice cream and fennel kimchi; before chocolate ganache flirting with a peanut cream and an intense buckwheat crumble. // Paul Hackett

FEELING THIRSTY? A Loire Sauvignon blanc produced by Olivier Bellanger (€5 a glass), a red from Laurent Bordes vinified in a blockhaus in Bordeaux (€8), an Alsatian white blend from La Grange de l’Oncle Charles (€49 a bottle)…
PRICE: À la carte €31-35.

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