Kedem

Gil Elad and Ronan Cadoret are back in town and the lovely scent of toasted sesame is in the air! Eagerly awaited ever since Miles, Mampuku and Massa closed down, the duo set up shop near Place de la République, behind a pine green tile counter. Seated there the day we went for lunch, we devoured some mouthwatering bread (a sesame ka’ak hailing from Jerusalem and a Yemeni smoked chili kubaneh) alongside a series of comforting mezze: a cucumber yogurt dip cheekily infused with pastis, masterfully prepared hummus, and crisp green beans in a honey and sesame paste sauce. What came next? Some incredibly fresh bonito, served lightly marinated with a spoonful of muhammara (red pepper dip) with toasted hazelnuts, tender roasted zucchini, and a touch of crumbled feta – all of which was paired with mouthwatering smoked eggplant caviar prepared like an aioli; before the grand finale, a delicious knafeh served with hibiscus poached peach, all covered with halva whipped cream and a sprinkling of pistachios… Go ahead and eat to your heart’s content! // Marise Effouet

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines from France (Plume, a Saumur-Champigny from Bruno Dubois at €29 a bottle, Granit, a sparkling Gamay from the Château de Lavernette at €37) and elsewhere (Aióra, a Greek white from Moschopolis at €5.50 a glass)… And to go with that, espresso from Café Piha (€2) or cardamom-infused Turkish coffee (€3).

PRICE: Set menu €22-32 (lunch) and €39-45 (dinner).