Hazelnut hardwood floors, a Formica bar, a windowed wine collection… Cécile Lambré and Nico Lefevre send out lots of love and low-intervention wines at their pretty eatery. While monsieur light-heartedly pours his 350 natural nectars, madame delights guests with small, graceful plates served on homey tableware. The day we went, we lunched on the terrace: some lovely clams from Le Croisic marinated in Savagnin vinegar, bathing in a sauce poulette that had us practically licking the seashells clean; a striking hand-cut duck tartare paired with runny stracciatella from the Burdigala creamery, camouflaged under shaved raw mushrooms and a few Piedmont hazelnuts; and for dessert, an impossible choice between brioche French toast with aged Banyuls vinegar caramel, or an Abinao chocolate pudding with damson plums. // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? The wines flow freely! Quintaine, a Viré-Clessé from the Domaine Guillemot-Michel (€8 a glass), Poignées de Raisins, a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Domaine Gramenon (€7) and a Portuguese orange wine from Folias de Baco (€8). Or by the bottle: Luna Blanc, a Roussillon white from Bruno Duchêne (€36) or Cuvée 910, a Mâcon red from Les Vignes du Maynes (€54).

PRICE: Appetizers €8-12, mains €17-22, desserts €7-9.