Because when you’re hungry, you’re thirsty. Cécile Lambré and Nicolas Lefevre, two self-taught gourmets with a flair for high-flying bistronomy, decided to explore the pleasures of food (her) and wine (him). De-capitalized Parisians, all they’re looking for is chemistry when they deal out natural wines from behind their red zinc and Formica 60s bar. The proof can be found in the windowed wine collection from these Lacoste-wearing purveyors of good wine, who really push their ideas to the extreme: Une Tranche Made in Chénas from Philippe Jambon (€6 a glass); Racines, a white Loire from Claude Courtois (€40 a bottle); an Haut-Médoc from the Closerie des Moussis (€30). Enjoy the lot while seated in a Baumann chair under stylish light fixtures. While one of the framed posters dares you to “Changer l’Aude en vin!”, the cuisine gives rise to some small miracles: Olympian white asparagus from Monsieur Vezard, biblically illuminated by Banyuls vinegar and toasted kasha infused browned butter (€8.50); explosively flavorful clams marinière with fino fortified wine to go with the incredible chorizo made by a butcher friend (€10); fried smelt with a dash of admirable tartaresauce (€9.50); magnificent brioche French toast impregnated with an incredible blood orange caramel (€7). Plates €8-14, desserts €7. // M.J.-D.