Déméter

We said no moms! Déméter or “Ta mère la terre” (aka Your Mother Earth”), the Greek goddess of agriculture and the harvest, haunts the lofty space that used to house Mampuku. These days, it acts as an altar to Bordeaux bistronomy, supplied by the aproned titan Gary Village (ex-Echo and Chiocchio) and his partner Guillaume Le Goff (Madame Pang), backed up in the kitchen by Léa Lemaitre and Aurore Dourguia Piochés who crafted the very short menu (two appetizers, two mains, two desserts) the day we went for lunch: tender and vinegary leeks mimosa; short ribs stewed for ages and served over a silky parsnip purée, with a hearty dose of rich jus de viande and watercress salad; before a decadent cream puff filled with whipped cream and clementine jam. At night, small plates take over: veal sweetbreads and beef tongue croquettas, miniature labneh-za’atar pizzas, veal tartare, skewered duck hearts… // Raoul Taburin 

FEELING THIRSTY? Good, organic wines served by sommelier Louis Duclos: Accenteur, an Hérault white from the Domaine de L’Accent (€8 a glass), Les Calades, a Cahors red from Le Vent des Jours (€39 a bottle), Aleph, a Rhone red produced by La Famille De Bouel (€50)… 
PRICE: Set menus €19-23 (from Wednesday to Thursday at lunch), plates €7-19 (dinner and Saturday at lunch).