Our apologies! Since 2015, this top-notch pizzeria tucked away in the Saint Pierre neighborhood has somehow slipped under Le Fooding’s radar. And there’s a reason for that: this cultish little hideout opens just one evening a week, hosting a mere eight lucky diners, with the rest relegated to takeout. This is the domain of Bartolo Calderone, Sicilian-born, raised in a family of olive-oil producers, Doctor of Humanities, literary critic and, yes, an obsessively gifted pizzaiolo. In 2019, he founded his EPPN professional school dedicated to pizza and naturally-leavened bread, which has since trained hundreds of pizzamakers. Impressive stuff! As for the sourcing, it’s as serious as it gets: organic, stone-ground flour from a farm in Lot-et-Garonne, natural levain starter, capers from Salina, Tuscan buffalo mozzarella and goat cheese from Ferme du Chaudron Magique in Brugnac. All of which translates into pizzas of rare precision. Case in point: the exceptional Fattoria with its beautifully puffed crust, four-cheese harmony (mozzarella, gorgonzola, smoked scamorza, parmesan) and a devilishly good tomato jam; or the Pistacchio, a stunner layered with saffron carrot coulis, pistachios, mozzarella, parmesan and oregano, among other good things. Dessert? One option only – and it’s all you need: a masterful house tiramisu that’s not overly sweet. · Marcellin Caillou

FEELING THIRSTY? Italian only: Moretti lager (€3.50 for 330 ml), Segreta, a Sicilian white from Planeta (€6 a glass) or Ograde, a Friulian orange wine from Sandi Skerk’s (€36 a bottle). One exception sneaks in: Abatilles spring water (€2.50 for 500 ml).

PRICE: Pizzas €12.90 to €16.90, tiramisu €6.50.