Tired of roaming the Médoc vineyards, in late 2016 ex-oenologist Bruno Grannet took up residence at this cave à manger (unfinished walls, Edison light bulbs, big tables, a tiled bar). Squeeze in tight for some of the fearless and irreproachable small plates, like the ones we ate the night we went, sent out by the entirely female staff: creamy burrata on a bed of pesto paired with poached peach slices and sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts; juicy pork and shrimp wontons bobbing in a verbena Thai broth; mackerel bronzed with a culinary blowtorch and glazed with an apple-mustard vinegar, lovage-blackberry oil; tender Ibaiama pork loin from Eric Mayté that took to the sea under a briny emulsion; and to sweeten the deal, a very serious hazelnut financier with rose ice cream. // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A naturophile wine list: K Blanc, an Angevin white from La Ferme du Benault (made with Cabernet franc grapes that are vinified like a white wine, €7 a glass), Chaos, a voluptuous red from Les Chais du Port de la Lune in Bordeaux (vinified in a bunker, €7.50) or a Spanish Bianco Natural from Partida Creus (€39 a bottle).

PRICE: Appetizers €9-10, mains €13.50-16, desserts €8.