Marble tables, a tiled bar, a menu that’s as short as a winter’s day but as warm as a Tuscan afternoon, and a corner terrace dominated by a big Mr Fox mural by the street artist A-MO… After Echo, Bruno Grannet and his sweetheart struck gold once again with this “bistroteria,” named after a village they fell in love with during a trip to Tuscany. For us, the day we went for lunch: crisp, oily, Jewish artichokes with mint pesto, walnuts and anchovies; a giant risotto with squid, black olives and a mustardy condiment – or, noticed on a nearby table, a glistening veal tartare with apricots and an anchovy coulis; before the devilishly good dessert, a tiramisu served with a ladle, or a moist ciambella (lemon cake) with an orange cream and a fennel-anise sorbet. At night, cocktails make their way onto the scene to support the small plates – chard stuffed with scarmoza and pancetta; homemade gnocchi with burrata cream, bottarga and olives; line-caught hake ceviche from Saint-Jean-de-Luz with lardo di Colonnata and diced quince, etc. // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A 100% natural wine list: a Nero-di-Troia red from Puglia (€6.50 a glass), a juicy Sicilian red from Cantine Rallo (€25 a bottle), Dinavolino, an orangey white from Emilie-Romagne (€45) and cocktails (€9).

PRICE: Appetizers €7-19, mains €18-19, desserts €8-9.