From cultivating heritage wheat varieties on an agroecological estate in the Périgord region to baking sourdough breads and pastries in the chic heart of Bordeaux: this is the ambitious project dreamed up by farmer-miller Jean Christophe Lavillette and his baker wife Angélique. The result is a true gem of a store, with its green facade, whitewashed walls, oak ceiling dressed with reed panels, and a warm, rammed-earth counter showcasing the full range of superb naturally leavened breads: round boules and elegant lingot loaves made with ancient wheats like rouge de Bordeaux or barbu du Roussillon, with seeds, walnuts or einkorn. There’s plenty more to get your hands on: rustic croissants and sourdough chocolatines, plump fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes perfumed with orange blossom, devilishly good caramel walnut tarts, Paris-Brest reimagined as cream puffs, ham and cheese croissants slicked with a dab of mustard, or generously filled sandwiches with smoked trout or Causses de Cesserou ham. All that, plus four tables to plonk your bum at, plus coffee from local specialty roasters Oven Heaven. One last sustainably-minded thing: grab yesterday’s bread at 40% off! · Marcellin Caillou

THE HIDDEN GEM: Astrid’s gâteau basque revisited with organic hazelnuts (€3.50 a slice).