Canal-side, boats bobbing, polished wood floors, leather banquettes and full-throttle nautical decor featuring pennant flags and scale models of the Mercator, all beneath a ship’s wheel masquerading as a chandelier. BRYC is exactly what you’d imagine the clubhouse of the capital’s oldest yacht club to look like. At the helm is Jérémy Rigô, whose kitchen keeps things firmly homemade and resolutely bistro – though vegetarians may find themselves a little at sea. On the menu that day: fish soup with rouille, sourdough croutons and Comté, giving the classic (yet unmissable) Cro’vettes shrimp croquette a serious run for its money; then sole meunière with tender new potatoes glistening in seaweed butter, edging out the usual crowd-pleasers – spaghetti bolognese, américain (Belgian-style steak tartare), roast chicken and steak, with meats sourced from Dierendonck and all served with fries. We may be by the water’s edge, but this isn’t Marseille. This is Brussels, baby. · Pablo Pique-Assiette

Feeling thirsty? Stay on theme with the aptly named Cuvée des Galets from Vignerons d’Estezargues (€6 a glass) or Rish Basil Smash kombucha (€4.90 for 330 ml).

Price: Set menus €32-36 (weekday lunch); starters €10-20; mains €15-30; desserts €9.50-13.