“One for the road?” At Chez Hélène, it’s a question that pops up rather a lot. Stefano Bedani and Thuan Duy Lam (ex-Chez Ta Mère) have poured their hearts into this bespoke new venture. From the moment you step inside (a large wooden counter, soft lighting, a glossy red mezzanine with a wink to Tokyo, and an open kitchen where Julien Issa and Paul Kirkpatrick’s plates glide out with effortless precision), you know you’re in good hands. Nothing misses a beat: still-warm sourdough from Guns with lemony dill butter; sea bream ceviche with zingy leche de tigre, tart Granny Smith, pickled red chili and fresh cilantro; then a rack of lamb tickled pink and served with rosemary roast potatoes, wilted chard and a rich port sauce. It’s exactly the kind of place where one for the road somehow turns into two. · Tuna Satana

Feeling thirsty? Sake by the glass, including a floral, fruity Kizan (€7) and a fresh, umami-rich Tsuchida (€12)… Or carefully curated wines: a Loire Chardonnay from Domaine Braud (€39.50 a bottle), La Bouffonne, a Bordeaux red by Maison Advinam (€51) and Terroirist, an orange wine by Domaine Plageoles in Gaillac (€52).

Price: Starters €9-16, mains €22-32, desserts €10.